CHAPTER VIII
THE GROWING OF THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS
INSTRUCTIONS ON PARTICULAR KINDS
In the preceding chapter advice is given that applies to groups or
classes of plants, and many lists are inserted to guide the grower in
his choice or at least to suggest to him the kinds of things that may be
grown for certain purposes or conditions. It now remains to give
instructions on the growing of particular kinds or species of plants.
It is impossible to include instructions on any great number of plants
in a book like this. It is assumed that the user of this book already
knows how to grow the familiar or easily handled plants; if he does not,
a book is not likely to help him very much. In this chapter all such
things as the common annuals and perennials and shrubs and trees are
omitted. If the reader is in doubt about any of these, or desires
information concerning them, he will have to consult the catalogues of
responsible seedsmen and nurserymen or cyclopedic works, or go to some
competent person for advice.
In this chapter are brought together instructions on the growing of such
plants commonly found about home grounds and in window-gardens as seem
to demand somewhat special or particular treatment or about which the
novice is likely to ask; and of course these instructions must be brief.
[Illustration: XVII. The peony. One of the most steadfast of garden
flowers.]
It may be repeated here that a person cannot expect to grow a
plant satisfactorily until he learns the natural time of the plant to
grow and to bloom. Many persons handle their begonias, cacti, and
azaleas as if they should be active the whole year round. The key to
the situation is water: at what part of the year to withhold and at what
part to apply is one of the very first things to learn.
Abutilons, or flowering maples as they are often called, make good
house plants and bedding plants. Nearly all house gardeners have at
least one plant.
Common abutilons may be grown from seed or from cuttings of young wood.
If the former, the seed should be sown in February or March in a
temperature of not less than 60°. The seedlings should be potted when
about four to six leaves have grown, in a rich sandy soil. Frequent
pottings should be made to insure a rapid growth, making plants large
enough to flower by fall. Or the seedlings may be planted out in the
border when danger of frost is over, and taken up in the fall before
frost; these plants will bloom all winter. About one half of the newer
growth should be cut off when they are taken up, as they are very liable
to spindle up when grown in the house. When grown from cuttings, young
wood should be used, which, after being well rooted, may be treated in
the same way as the seedlings.
The varieties with variegated leaves have been improved until the
foliage effects are equal to the flowers of some varieties; and these
are a great addition to the conservatory or window garden. The staple
spotted-leaved type is A. Thompsoni. A compact form, now much used for
bedding and other outdoor work, is Savitzii, which is a horticultural
variety, not a distinct species. The old-fashioned green-leaved A.
striatum, from which A. Thompsoni has probably sprung, is one of the
best. A. megapotamicum or vexillarium is a trailing or drooping
red-and-yellow-flowered species that is excellent for baskets, although
not now much seen. It propagates readily from seed. There is a form with
spotted leaves.
Abutilons are most satisfactory for house plants when they are not much
more than a year old. They need no special treatment.
Agapanthus, or African lily (Agapanthus umbellatus and several
varieties).--A tuberous-rooted, well-known conservatory or window plant,
blooming in summer. Excellent for porch and yard decoration. It lends
itself to many conditions and proves satisfactory a large part of the
year, the leaves forming a green arch over the pot, covering it entirely
in a well-grown specimen. The flowers are borne in a large cluster on
stems growing 2-3 ft. high, as many as two or three hundred bright blue
flowers often forming on a single plant. A large, well-grown plant
throws up a number of flower-stalks through the early season.
The one essential to free growth is an abundance of water and an
occasional application of manure water. Propagation is effected by
division of the offsets, which may be broken from the main plant in
early spring. After flowering, gradually lessen the quantity of water
until they are placed in winter quarters, which should be a position
free from frost and moderately dry. The agapanthus, being a heavy
feeder, should be grown in strong loam to which is added well-rotted
manure and a little sand. When dormant, the roots will withstand a
little frost.
Alstremeria.--The alstremerias (of several species) belong to the
amaryllis family, being tuberous-rooted plants, having leafy stems
terminating in a cluster of ten to fifty small lily-shaped flowers of
rich colors in summer.
Most of the alstremerias should be given pot culture, as they are easily
grown and are not hardy in the open in the North. The culture is nearly
that of the amaryllis,--a good, fibrous loam with a little sand, potting
the tubers in early spring or late fall. Start the plants slowly, giving
only enough water to cause root growth; but after growth has become
established, a quantity of water may be given. After flowering they may
be treated as are amaryllis or agapanthus. The roots may be divided, and
the old and weak parts shaken out. The plants grow 1-3 ft. high. The
flowers often have odd colors.
Amaryllis.--The popular name of a variety of house or conservatory
tender bulbs, but properly applied only to the Belladonna lily. Most of
them are hippeastrums, but the culture of all is similar. They are
satisfactory house plants for spring and summer bloom. One difficulty
with their culture is the habit of the flower-stalk starting into growth
before the leaves grow. This is caused in most cases by stimulating root
growth before the bulb has had sufficient rest.
The bulbs should be dormant four or five months in a dry place with a
temperature of about 50°. When wanted to be brought into flower, the
bulbs, if to be repotted, should have all the dirt shaken off and potted
in soil composed of fibrous loam and leafmold, to which should be added
a little sand. If the loam is heavy, place the pot in a warm situation;
a spent hotbed is a good place. Water as needed, and as the flowers
develop liquid manure may be given. If large clumps are well established
in 8-or 10-inch pots, they may be top-dressed with new soil containing
rotted manure, and as growth increases liquid manure may be given twice
a week until the flowers open. After flowering, gradually withhold water
until the leaves die, or plunge the pots in the open, in a sunny place.
The most popular species for window-gardens is A. Johnsoni (properly a
hippeastrum), with red flowers. Figs. 257, 261.
Bulbs received from dealers should be placed in pots not much broader
than the bulb, and the neck of the bulb should not be covered. Keep
rather dry until active growth begins. The ripened bulbs, in fall, may
be stored as potatoes, and then brought out in spring as rapidly as any
of them show signs of growth.