THE GROWING OF THE ORNAMENTAL PLANTS
THE CLASSES OF PLANTS, AND
LISTS - Continued
It is not generally known that there are autumn-flowering bulbs. Several
species of crocus bloom in the fall, C. sativus (the saffron crocus)
and C. speciosus being the ones generally recommended. The colchicums
are excellent autumn-blooming bulbs and should be more generally
planted. C. autumnale, rosy purple, is the usual species. These
autumn-blooming bulbs are planted in August or early September and
treated in general the same as other similar bulbs. The colchicums
usually remain in the ground several years in good condition.
[Illustration: Fig. 258. The Japanese gold-banded lily.--Lilium
auratum]
All kinds of bulbs are partial to a deep, rich, water-free soil. This is
no small part of their successful culture. The spot should be well
drained, either naturally or artificially. In flattish and rather moist
lands the beds may be made above the surface, some 18 inches high, and
bordered with grass. A layer of rough stones a foot deep is sometimes
used in the bottom of ordinary beds for drainage, and with good results,
when other methods are not convenient, and when there is fear that the
bed may become too wet. If the place is likely to be rather wet, place a
large handful of sand where the bulb is to go and set the bulb on it.
This will keep the water from standing around the bulb. Very good
results may be had in heavy soil by this method.
[Illustration: Fig. 259. One of the common wild lilies.--Lilium
Philadelphicum.]
The soil for bulbs should be well enriched with old manure. Fresh manure
should never be allowed close about the bulb. The addition of leafmold
and a little sand also improves the texture of heavy soils. For lilies
the leafmold may be omitted. Let the spading be at least a foot deep.
Eighteen inches will be none too deep for lilies. To make a bulb bed,
throw out the top earth to the depth of 6 inches. Put into the bottom
of the bed about 2 inches of well-rotted manure and spade it into the
soil. Throw back half of the top soil, level it off nicely, set the
bulbs firmly on this bed, and then cover them with the remainder of the
earth; in this way one will have the bulbs from 3 to 4 inches below the
surface, and they will all be of uniform depth and will give uniform
results if the bulbs themselves are well graded. The "design" bed may be
worked out easily in this way, for all the bulbs are fully exposed after
they are placed, and they are all covered at once.
[Illustration: Fig. 260. Common species of narcissus.--a a. Narcissus
Pseudo-Narcissus or daffodil; b. Jonquil; c. N. Pœticus.]
Of course, it is not necessary that the home gardener go to the trouble
of removing the earth and replacing it if he merely wants good blooms;
but if he wants a good bed as a whole, or a mass effect, he should take
this pains. In the shrubberies and on the lawn he may "stick them in"
here and there, seeing that the top of the bulb is 3 to 6 inches beneath
the surface, the depth depending on the size of the bulb (the bigger and
stronger the bulb, the deeper it may go) and on the nature of the soil
(they may go deeper in sand than in hard clay).
As the time of severe winter freezing approaches, the bed should receive
a mulch of leaves, manure or litter, to the depth of 4 inches or more,
according to the latitude and the kind of material. If leaves are used,
3 inches will be enough, because the leaves lie close together and may
smother out the frost that is in the ground and let the bulbs start. It
will be well to let the mulch extend 1 foot or more beyond the margins
of the bed. When cold weather is past, half of the mulch should be
removed. The remainder may be left on till there is no longer danger of
frost. On removing the last of the mulch, lightly work over the surface
among the bulbs with a thrust-hoe.
If the weather happens to be very bright during the blooming season, the
duration of the flowers may be prolonged by light shading--as with
muslin, or slats placed above the beds. If planted where they have
partial shade from surrounding trees or shrubbery, the beds will not
need attention of this kind.
Lilies may remain undisturbed for years. Crocuses and tulips may stand
two years, but hyacinths should be taken up each year and replanted;
tulips also will be better for the same treatment. Narcissus may remain
for some years, or until they show signs of running out.
[Illustration: Fig. 261. The Belladonna lily.--Amaryllis Belladonna.]
Bulbs that are to be taken up should be left in the ground till the
foliage turns yellow, or dies down naturally. This gives the bulbs a
chance to ripen. Cutting off the foliage and digging too early is a not
uncommon and serious mistake. Bulbs that have been planted in places
that are wanted for summer bedding plants may be dug with the foliage on
and heeled-in under a tree, or along a fence, to stand till ripened.
The plant should be injured as little as possible, as the foliage of
this year makes the flowers of the next. When the foliage has turned
yellow or died down, the bulbs--after cleaning, and curing them for a
few hours in the sun--may be stored in the cellar or other cool, dry
place, to await fall planting. Bulbs that are lifted prematurely in this
way should be planted permanently in the borders, for they will not make
good flower-garden subjects the following year. In fact, it is usually
best to buy fresh, strong bulbs each year of tulips, hyacinths, and
crocuses if the best results are desired, using the old bulbs for
shrubberies and mixed borders.
Crocuses and squills are often planted in the lawn. It is not to be
expected that they will last more than two to three years, however, even
if care is taken not to cut the tops closely when the lawn is cut. The
narcissus (including daffodils and jonquils) will remain in good
condition for years in grassy parts of the place, if the tops are
allowed to mature.
List of outdoor fall-planted bulbs for the North.
Crocus.
Hyacinth.
Tulip.
Narcissus (including daffodil and jonquil).
[Illustration: Fig. 262. The common Dutch hyacinth.]
Scilla, or squill.
Snowdrop (Galanthus).
Snowflake (Leucoium).
Chionodoxa.
Hardy alliums.
Bulbocodium.
Camassia.
Lily-of-the-valley.
Winter aconite (Eranthis hycmalis).
Dog-tooth violets (Erythronium).
Crown imperial (Fritillaria Imperialis).
Fritillary (Fritillaria Mekagris).
Trilliums.
Lilies.
Peonies, tuberous anemones, tuberous buttercups, iris, bleeding heart,
and the like, may be planted in autumn and are often classed with
fall-planted bulbs.
Winter bulbs (p. 345).
Some of these bulbs may be made to bloom in the greenhouse,
window-garden, or living room in winter. Hyacinths are particularly
useful for this purpose, because the bloom is less affected by cloudy
weather than that of tulips and crocuses. Some kinds of narcissus also
"force" well, particularly the daffodil; and the Paper-white and
"Chinese sacred lily" are practically the only common bulbs from which
the home gardener may expect good bloom before Christmas. The method of
handling bulbs for winter bloom is described under Window-gardening
(on *p. 345).
Summer bulbs.
There is nothing special to be said of the culture of the so-called
summer-blooming and spring-planted bulbs, as a class. They are tender,
and are therefore planted after cold weather is past. For early bloom,
they may be started indoors. Of course, any list of spring-planted bulbs
is relative to the climate, for what may be planted in spring in New
York perhaps may be planted in the fall in Georgia.
The common "summer bulbs" are:--
Gladiolus
Tuberose
Dahlia
Canna
Arum
Calla
Calochortus
Alstremeria
Amaryllis
Colocasia
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